Is your door dead? Is your electric lock not angry? If you are tired of getting in and out of the car through the passenger side, please continue reading to discover common problems with the doors and learn how to solve them.
Wear and age are the common underlying reasons for car doors not working properly – they don’t want to lock or unlock with the button or key, or they don’t want to open from the inside or outside. The controls it uses to lock and unlock and open the doors are connected to the lock and latch mechanisms via bars. When the locking and closing mechanisms stop working, this is because the rod or cable has been dropped, broken or bent, or the bushings that allow it to move are worn and allow too much movement.
This article will address four issues in mechanical and electronic door locking systems. We will cover the diagnosis and repair of malfunction, but first, remove the door panel.
How to remove the door panel
The only general truth about the door panel of the manufacturer is that there will be some hidden screws. The image below shows some common hidden points, such as behind the removable door cover (# 1) and under the armrest pad and cover (# 2). The best process to avoid damage includes:
- Careful visual inspection, pay attention to decorative strips that look like removable
- Use a plastic pry tool designed for internal work
- Gently pull on the door panel when you think you have removed all the screws. If there is a point that seems to stick, you will probably miss a screw. Instead of pulling the panel like the Hulk, take a moment to go back and look for hidden screws again.
When pulling the door panel, some clips that secure the perimeter of the panel to the door may be left behind. Take those clips out of the door and put them back on the panel. You can do it with a flathead screwdriver or by hand, but the clip remover on the adjustment panel will make the job a little easier and help prevent damage to the clip or door panel during removal. This can be especially dangerous on older vehicles where clips may have degraded and become brittle over time.
Lift the panel and remove it from the door, but do not use excessive force, as wires and cables may still be connected. Release all wires and/or connectors and switches from the door panel. If you install the speaker wire to the panel instead of the door, you must unplug it from the speaker (note the polarity of the speaker and wire). Set the door panel aside and carefully remove the plastic waterproof layer (if any). The waterproof layer is important to prevent rust and corrosion because rust and corrosion will eventually cause premature parts damage.
Now that you have removed the panel from your door let’s consider four problems you might be experiencing.
1. ELECTRIC LOCK DOES NOT WORK
If all of your doors are locked/unlocked with the interior buttons but not the remote, the problem is probably with the “brains” that control the electric door locks. If the gates don’t work, the problem is most likely a blown a fuse or relay or a faulty control module. Here, we will remove or highlight the lock solenoid as the culprit and change it if it is faulty.
- Attach the crocodile clip on the test lamp to a hard surface.
- Locate the locking solenoid and its wiring connector. You may need a flashlight to see inside the door.
- Click the button on the remote control and check the movement of the solenoid on the actuator rod. If the solenoid is humming or clicking but not moving, then it needs to be replaced. Jump one step forward.
- Test the back of one of the solenoid connectors while pressing the button on the remote control several times, checking each of the cables while pressing the button twice. The solenoid is defective if the test light comes on during polling. If this poll does not show these signals, the problem is with the interior wiring or the control module.
- The locking solenoid is secured to a bracket and/or door panel with two or three small screws or bolts that are easier to access with a ¼-inch ratchet with a socket and/or a Phillips screwdriver bit. Delete them.
- Disconnect the solenoid actuator from the locking actuator rod. These are usually attached by means of a rotating bushing with a clip that hooks onto the locking actuator bar. However, there may be a dimple in the “reed” bushing inserted into the bushing that locks it in place, or the end of the actuator rod may end in a U-shape that is wound through the solenoid actuator.
- Lift or press the locking latch on the solenoid wiring connector and separate the two connectors.
- Activate the new solenoid, and reconnect it.
2. The solenoid valve can pull the lever or turn the key with one click
What could be the problem if the solenoid seems to be working because the actuator is going in and out, but you can only lock/unlock the car manually? This is because the bushing that locks the solenoid actuator to the locking actuator rod and/or the bushing that locks the rod to the locking mechanism has been broken or worn to the extent that it does not allow the actuator rod move enough. Either way, it has to be replaced.
- Disconnect the locking arm rod and/or the solenoid actuator.
- Pop worn arm or actuator bushings.
- Insert new sleeves and reconnect the actuator rod at both ends.
3. THE KEY DOES NOT WORK, AND PUSHING / DOING THE LOCK BUTTON INSIDE THE CAR DOES NOT WORK
This is often another case of sleeve wear. The wear can be so severe that the connecting rods fall out and sit at the bottom of the door.
- Press and pull the button (or the door handle) to lock and unlock the door while observing movement throughout the mechanism. Pay attention to where the rods connect to each other or to actuators. Also, look for missing rods between the parts.
- Remove and replace any bushings that allow excessive movement, or “tilt,” between the rods and other moving parts.
4. The door will not open from one or two sides
Wear and tear is also likely to be the culprit when the door doesn’t open from one or both sides but has no trouble locking and unlocking.
- Pull the inner and outer handle separately, observing the movement mechanism between the parts.
- In some rare cases, the rod will pop out of the sleeve due to excessive vibration, such as hitting the hole. When this happens, reconnect the parts and pull the handles again to check for excessive wear.
- Although the metal often used indoor handles is often of low quality, it rarely breaks unless it is abused. If the hook of the door handle rod breaks, the handle can be replaced by removing the screws/bolts securing it to the door panel. The outer handles are attached between the inner and outer panels, while the inner handles are usually screwed/screwed in from the inside.
- The reason is probably the wear of the sleeve. You see how the rod (bars) between the handle and latch mechanism move, but not enough to unlock the door. Disconnect the rods and replace the sleeves.
After repairing, secure the plastic moisture barrier in place and reconnect all cables and wires. Hang the door panel on the channel leading the window and pop the clips around the perimeter. After confirming proper operation, secure all screws and finishes that have been removed.